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The Fairmen of the Boards

The Fairmen of the Boards
Rovaniemi is not bodacious. One does not go there to hang ten. Here, on the very edge of the Finnish Arctic Circle, you’ll find Christmas song before Billabong. The town unashamedly markets itself as ‘The Official Hometown of Santa Claus’, and though I don’t see the fat man when I visit,..
Travel
  • 19 Mar
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Arcade Fire

Arcade Fire
I have been good at many computer games, but I have been great at only one: Tekken. The ‘King of Iron Fist Tournament’ was first developed by Japanese gaming stalwarts Namco in 1994 and a few months later became one of the early flagship titles for the new Sony Playstation...
Other
  • 1 Mar
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Hell in Paradise

Hell in Paradise
Ronnie Vorswyk spends most of his days in a Napoleonic jail at the edge of the Amazon jungle. A guide in the sprawling, long-disused Transportation Prison in Saint Laurent du Maroni in French Guiana, the 60-year-old is originally from the former Dutch colony of Suriname, just on the other side..
Travel
  • 26 Feb
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Winter’s Past

Winter’s Past
The Governor is a man of few words but many jobs. Sitting in his permanently oil-stained orange overalls, he looks past me, out of a window in the Pyramiden Hotel with the look of a concerned parent.  Out there, on the decaying streets of Pyramiden, Petr Petrovich is caretaker, driver, gardener, janitor, just..
Polar Writing
  • 21 Feb
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The World Nomad Games

The World Nomad Games
Ordinarily it would have been golden eagles on the gopher’s mind, but on a sunny afternoon in early September, there was something else to worry about. As it emerged from its burrow in the Kyrchyn Valley in central Kyrgyzstan, the rodent sniffed the dusty air blowing north towards the border..
Travel
  • 8 Dec
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Life and Death in the Chocolate Box

Life and Death in the Chocolate Box
On a cool, clear evening in Buenos Aires, San Martín de San Juan, a small team from western Argentina, arrives to meet its fate at La Bombonera. Home of Boca Juniors, the largest and most successful team in the country, the stadium is the beating blue-and-gold heart of the colourful,..
Other
  • 6 Dec
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Necessity Bears

Necessity Bears
Bears are fierce; bears are cautious. Bears are solitary; bears, the females at least, are dedicated to family. Bears are omnipotent; bears are vulnerable. They are everything we want to be and everything we cannot abide. Those are a lot of human characteristics to project onto another species, especially when..
Polar Writing
  • 25 Oct
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Fjord Escort

Fjord Escort
It takes remarkably little time for Noah, my 13-year-old cousin, to settle into the particular smugness that comes with being in a Tesla. We may only have the Model X for a few days, and of course Noah doesn’t get to do any of the driving, but we’ve barely left..
Travel
  • 28 Sep
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Northern Appetites

Northern Appetites
“It’s really crazy work,” says Steve Torgersen. He’s talking about getting fresh water to his restaurant Gruvelageret, on the edge of Longyearbyen, Svalbard, but he could easily be talking generally about the challenges of supplying good food this far north. To look at Longyearbyen on a map (or in person), there’s..
Polar Writing
  • 11 Sep
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The End of Greece

The End of Greece
At the end of the world, I am reluctant to report, there is excellent 3G coverage. Our understanding of the world is a little better – at least in geographical terms – than it was in the age of the ancient Greeks, but for them the Matapan, the southernmost tip..
Travel
  • 8 Aug
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Be Careful What You Piss For

Be Careful What You Piss For

Other
  • 8 Aug
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South Georgia On My Mind

South Georgia On My Mind

Polar Writing
  • 18 Jan
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Salt, Stars and Survival

Salt, Stars and Survival

Travel
  • 21 Dec
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Land of the Faroes

Land of the Faroes

Travel
  • 26 Jun
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The Deep Mani

The Deep Mani

Travel
  • 26 Jun
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Latest Comments

48x48
Jamie Lafferty on 19 Jul
Land of the Faroes

I'd still recommend going. Just don't eat whale when you're there – it's on plenty of menus.

48x48
Jamie Lafferty on 19 Jul
The Teeth of Navarino Island

Hi Trev, nah I doubt it – it's just a bit too remote and the infrastructure isn't there.

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